No Ordinary Messby Roza Sinaysky | 13.02.14
Oh my, can I please start this post by saying how sorry I am for not posting for so long??! It’s been a crazy few weeks of traveling and I am finally starting to catch my breath. I know it’s in a little delay but as they say, it’s better late then never right? So here goes my post about Robert Zlotnik‘s brilliant new collection, and a quick chit chat with the designer about the mysterious location for his new campaign.
Roza Sinaysky: Tell me about this collection and how it was born?
Robert Zlotnik: I started working on this collection during a trip to Paris, most of the conceptual work has been done there. It was a great opportunity for me to combine between my current main theme, which is the geometry in nature, and the vibe in one of my favourite places in the world (Paris that is). Eventually the inspiration for this collection was a place called Giverny – the botanic gardens of the painter Monet. After spending a whole day there, it hit me. I realized that the writing was on the wall from the beginning, the place was surreal, pastoral in a melancholic way, geometry everywhere, it was it.
The collection is all about the combination between opposite elements: femininity and masculinity, strong geometrical lines combined with pleats and ruffles, big volume silhouettes, made of stiff but very soft fabric. My idea was to use the geometrical cutting lines in a garment, as a fundamental base, which constructs and holds the shape of a big volume silhouette that made of a soft fabric. There is something organic and raw about this. I compare it to the retaining walls of a building.
RS: I like how unexpected and different it (the collection) is, nothing like it in Israel, what do you think makes you a unique designer?
RZ: First of all thank you, you know, uniqueness is a meter of perspective, for me what I do is what I know. My design and my inspirations reflect on my world, it is my interpretation of things and my point of view on fashion and on the world in general.
My work mostly based on my instincts and intuition, that’s why I consider myself as a citizen of the world, and not necessarily of a particular country. I prefer to look at the big picture, because I believe that fashion is an international language, and a place like Israel, which contains so many different cultures, feels like a great platform for me.
My agenda is, that the most important thing, is to create with love, and to love what I create. It is the only way, if its made with love, inspiration and vision, it will find the right costumer, or the opposite. I always try to keep the balance between my ideas and what my costumer would want to wear, sometimes I become this costumer, in order to understand it better. In every collection, I combine a few garments which are limited, and a few costume-made pieces, I love to work with personal clients. Most of the garments have a personal touch, for example the black and white box dress has a pleated skirt, that has been attached by draping (by hand). So each dress is a bit different and one of a kind. During the season, I usually change the fabrics of the collection garments, in order to keep it fresh, so the number of each garment made of the original fabric is limited. My aim is to create a certain signature. I also believe in high quality, it is something I would never sell myself short for.
RS: Tell me about this shoot, the location looks very mysterious, what is this place?
RZ: The location is an old store room, when I tolled about the idea of the collection to the talented Shahaf Margalit, who is the photographer of this shoot (who is also a very close friend of mine) and understands my aesthetics very well, she came up with the idea. The location represents the diversity and the versatility of the collection, you can wear it as a casual and as an evening wear at the same time, depends on your style, so a storeroom is kind of a tribute to the fact that you can wear it any time, at any place. Its symbolise the order and the esthetics within the mess. It is also brings up the subject of the beauty definition, and symbolise the objectivity in it, as well as the question what is pretty and what is ugly?
RS: How have you grown as a designer from your last collection? What has changed?
RZ: I always try to reinvent my self, but to keep my language and my signature at the same time. I think that for a self taught designer, each collection brings huge development. With every collection you learn more, you understand better how things work, how fabrics react to certain manipulations, who is your client and what is the massage that you deliver though your work.
If I look at the time line of my work, I can clearly see the change i’ve been through, from inspiration to esthetics, influences and the elements within the garments, which ends up with my current esthetics- minimalism and the elements from the couture world such as a big volume siluettes, big pleats and ruffles. At this point, I challenge myself more than ever, to take out all the unnecessary elements in each sketch i make, in order to find the design essence of the garment.
RS: How is the Israeli press and fashion circle excepting your designs?
RZ: Although I design since I can remember myself, my brand is quite new, it exists for about two years and since the beginning my work caught an attention of stylists and photographers from Israel and abroad who used my designs for shootings and fashion figures who also worn my garments to fashion events most of them became close friends of mine. Resonantly Razili offered me to collaborate with them and it’s been a success and a good opportunity for me to expend my circle of clients and to expose my work on a new platform. I enjoy it very much its a wonderful experience. I’m excited each time when someone likes my clothes, wether its costumers,celebrity, stylists or people from the fashion circle, its always nice to know that i’m not the only one who likes what I do!
RS: What are your feature plans?
RZ: These days I’m working on several projects like my summer collection an evening collection and a collaboration project with a very talented artist/photographer/filmmaker Ella Manor. In the long run, I’m planing to open a show-room studio, which will also function as a workshop and as a platform for young artists to exhibit and sell their works, thats incase I won’t move somewhere in Europe, nothing personal, I’m just a winter person!
Photography, hair & make up : Shahaf Margalit, model : Coral Etzioni